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KHARLOVKA AND EASTERN LITZA
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The Kharlovka Report: Week 30B – Mystic Litza – Big Trout Kharlovka, ended Saturday 26-Jul-08.
By: Johnny Liverød
Group : Ståle Johansen ( Norway ), Thor Øyvind Hagen ( Norway ), Frank Henning Skaarud ( Norway ), Morten Lafton ( Norway ), Frode Granli ( Norway ) and Johnny Liverød ( Group Leader Norway )
From left Ståle, Thor Øyvind, Frank Henning, Johnny, Igor(chef), Morten and Frode
The journey started with a few logistical headaches, including technical issues with the aircraft from Kristiansand, Frode reached the next aircraft with only 5 minutes to spare and unfortunately Frank Henning and Ståle lost all of their luggage. After a lot of phone calls we located it in Kirkenes. We got Widerø to send it with an other flight company. And a very big thanks to Victor and the rest of his team for getting the luggage in to the Tundra with helicopter only a few days later.
We landed at Litza Mystic some hours later than planned. After we had set up the camp and had a quick info we spread in 3 groups for fishing.
The weather was splendid! It was 24 degrees and the sun was shining! The water temperatures reached 18 degrees which did cause some concern because the weather forecast predicted hot and sunny for the rest of the week. Then suddenly we saw the first fish rising and all thoughts of weather were very quickly forgotten!
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We fished mainly during the nights with very good results from 2 and 6 am. The next day started just as well as the first. It seems that the boys without luggage had now totally forgotten that they were fishing with borrowed equipment from Rynda Camp! A big thank you to Peter Power for kitting these guys out! It is hugely appreciated.
 Thor 2, 2 kg taken on goddard’s caddis |
 Frode 2, 6. |
The writer had an experience with a small trout which he shall never forget! Just before pulling the small fish towards the net, a massive Pike charged in and attacked the poor trout literally centimetres from my hand! The fly was lost and the Pike with the 300g trout in his mouth decided to play dead and wouldn’t move away! What a stupid Pike I thought! But after netting him he certainly woke up an became very lively once again, albeit it was too late for him!
We enjoyed our next days at the Mystic area with ‘great’ weather, but unfortunately the water temperature shot up to 20 degrees and sadly the fished stopped feeding on the surface. We became quite desperate, to the point when we began to pray for rain!
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On Wednesday, we where picked up by MI-8 and flown to Big trout Kharlovka, when we landed God answered our prayers! The weather switched to icy north-west winds up to 20 m/s which was followed by lots of rain! We had 4 days of Northwest wind and very tough fishing with no rising whatsoever. One tents collapsed becoming completely wrecked by the howling gale force winds! In the morning, it turned out that three other tents had also collapsed!
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Week summary: It was a hard week with warm water and a lot of wind and rain but nevertheless we managed 37 respectable fish over 1 kg, with several personal bests being broken.
A big thanks to Igor our guide and camp chef, who took very good care of us, with great food regardless of how bad the weather was! Thank you! We are all looking forward to returning as soon as possible and the next trip is already booked.
Very Best Wishes from Johnny and the rest of the group.
Trout Report Week 29A. ended 18-Jul-08
Big Trout Kharlovka and Saami Kitchen Litza.
At last the time was come. Flyfishing after Big rising trout on fly. Me and Morten were at the same place in 2007. We had spoken a lot about the fishing at Kola to known and unknown. And it was many people who was interesting to go fishing this year after attend our picture and Film we made last year.
We traveled by plane from Oslo Airport to Kirkenes, and a new plane from Kirkenes to Murmansk. From Murmansk it takes 3 hours with bus where the helicopter picked us up. We had lovely weather, and I think we had about 20 degrees so this looked very good for the fishing.
After about 30 minutes flying in the helicopter we came to Rynda camp where we met Peter Power, Yuri and our Chef Igor. We ate a lovely dinner before we packed our equipment in to the helicopter. Then we were ready for take off to the first camp Big Trout Kharlovka. The boys sat up the tent in a hurry, because now it was fishing time. . Morten took Eivind and Arnfinn upstream, and I take with me Åsmund and Ulf downsteam. It didn't take long time before we saw rising. I might see the big eyes Åsmund and Ulf became:-). The fish were rising close to us, and after a few tries I got my first trout at 1 kg. Right after Åsmund got a nice trout. His first trout at Kola and personal best at 1.7 kg at that time.
And so its Ulf's turn. At the same place he got his first and yes personal best also for him at 1.6kg :-). Then the rising stops a little and we went upstream. The rising starts again, and I got two nice fish at 2kg and 1.8 kg on caddis.
We stopped the fishing at 02. 00pm and took the boat home to the tent. Here we are meeting the other boys and they tell us that the fishing has been good.
Morten got one at 2.0kg, and Eivind got fish on 1.1kg, 3.1kg and 2.3kg. We take a little break and go to sleep.
Eivind with his fish at 3.1kg
Next day we are eating breakfast at 10. 00 pm. Nice with egg and Bacon.
We take the same groups but we exchange up and downstream.
Åsmund is tired this morning and sleep a little bit longer.
When me and Ulf came up to the island we take a break with chocolate and look for rising. And yes we can se big fishes steadily rising. We are doing ready our video camera, for our new film. I take a nice throw and the fish takes my fly, but I lost it. Dam. I new try, and yes, wow, this fish is big. It does some nice jumps and it goes with my flyline about 60 meters upstream. The fish turns and now it goes downsteam. The fish is very strong. And then suddenly he goes behind a big stone, and its unmoved. Dam. I ask Ulf for help, and he took the boat , so I can come behind the stone. I am sure I have lost it. But no. The fish is loose. Ulf takes me in to land . Ulf can start filming again, and see me got the beautiful fish in the net. The scale stops at 3.4kg and new personal record.
Martin with his personal record. 3.4kg
Ulf is also lucky this day and got two personal records. First a trout 2.2kg. And then we saw a nice fish steady rising. I am filming the fish and Ulf is fishing on it.
He takes a throw, but too short. At the third throw its perfect. The fly is getting closer, and the fish takes it. Yes, I got it all to film. It jumps 3-4 times.
I can see Ulf smiling now. The fish is very strong, and I must help him to get it in the net. The fish is 2.7kg. Record for Ulf.
Ulf with his biggest fish at 2.7kg
We stopped fishing at 15. 00 pm and its raining a lot now.
Back in the camp we met Eivind and Morten. They had a very good fishing downsteam.
Morten got fish at 1.7kg, 2.6kg, 1.6kg, 1.3kg and 2.6kg.
Eivind got fish at 2.9kg and 3.2kg. Hmmm is he an specimen fisher ?.
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The time is now 6. PM 14. 07. Igor has made a lovely dinner to us. Meat and potatoes. We took a break in the camp with coffee and chocolate before we went to bed.
Got up again at 8. PM. Morten and Ulf are fishing together, meanwhile me, Eivind and Åsmund go downsteam. Me and Eivind see some big fish rising.
We play about who is throw first. I win. The fish takes my caddis size 14. Again a very good fight. The scale stops on 2.7kg
Martin with his trout. 2.7kg
Now its Eivind's turn. The biggest fish is standing difficult in the river, so its hard to reach. After many tries he got a smaller fish, and he yells, no no no :-)
He thinks this fish is very small, but no. The fish is much bigger that he thinks, and the scale stops on 2.7kg like my fish :-)
So comes the big moment when Eivind got the biggest fish on this trip. After many tries finally a perfect throw and the fish takes the fly. Wow. The fish goes in the hardest stream, so Eivind must run fast down the river. I follow him with the camera..
But after five minutes the fish is unmoved behind a stone. Eivind thinks the fish is lost, but suddenly he can feel the fish again.
The fish is going all the way down this hard stream you can see on the picture before he can land the beauty in the net.
 Eivind with his personal best 4.0kg |
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I got one more this night with weight 1.5kg, before we go home to the camp, and meet the other boys again. Morten has got fish some fish at 1.6kg and 2.5kg.
Bedtime
Next day in Bigtrout we woke up to 25 degrees. Very hot. Morten and Eivind had been early up and Morten has got a fish at 2.0kg meanwhile Eivind has lost a big one. .
We ate lovely breakfast. Egg and bacon before the last shift in this river. After spoken with Peter Wulf earlier on the trip he recommended us to try the pool Wulfs lear. It takes about 1 hour to walk there.
But we never found the place and its so hot so we decide to walk home again. But this day is no good for fishing. No rising at all, so we take a rest in the river.
Morten is tired after the walking
When we took a rest and looked for rising I suddenly saw a fish rising beside a stone. The fish is up to or three times. I take a throw and got this fish on Caddis :-)
The day become night and the fishing is better. Arnfinn got his first trout ever, 0.5 kg . Åsmund also got his biggest fish this night so the boys are very satisfied.
Åsmund with personal best 2.5kg
We are fishing all night long, and we see many big fish but they wont take our flies. Its nice just to look also as well :-)
Only Morten woke up early next morning, meanwhile we are sleeping. He got the last fish in Big trout and the weight is 1.9 kg and 2.5 kg.
We got 43 trout in Big Trout.
The helicopter picked up us at 2. PM and we went for Saami Kitchen Litza
Saami Kitchen from the helicopter
When we arrived Saami Kitchen the temperature is up to almost 30 degrees. No good for fishing. . . .
We had the same weather the rest of the week so we had to fish at night. The day was too warm, but we got some nice fish nevertheless.
The first day starts with twelve fish above 1kg. Not a bad start.
 Arnfinn in action |
 Morten with a nice one |
 My biggest from Litza.3, 0kg |
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I wish I could write a lot more, but I have to stop now. We had a wonderful time also this year, and the boys were very satisfied. Some of us will come back also next year. A big thanks to our cook Igor.
You did a fantastic job in the kitchen with lovely food every day. . .
Big thanks to Kharlovka Company
Trout report for the week beginning 30th June -08.
Week 27
Participants: Gunnar Augland, Svein Schultz, Lars Kalek, Francisco Amador, Peter Wulff, Vegard Veberg (GL).
Sunday June 30th
Transport from Oslo Airport was uneventful. It was a pleasure to meet old and new friends again, and when we met Svein in Kirkenes the group was complete. Arriving at Mystic Pool exactly one year after our great trip last year filled us with excitement. Peter and I remembered the great fishing we had then, while the others mood was fuelled by the stories we told on the way here.
The river was higher than last year, but temperatures were already at 14 C. We saw a few mayflies but nothing like last year, when the currents were filled with heads and tails, while droves of tiny mayflies nearly obscured the water.
When the midsummer sun came around the hill the stories still lingered in the cool misty air and the only witnesses left were some beer cans and an empty bottle of fire-water.
Monday July 1st
After Igor’s excellent scrambled eggs topped with bacon we spread out across the river. The day got warmer and few fish were rising in the uppermost pools. The lower pool produced a lot more surface action from fish in the 1-1, 5 kg range. Sure we would have caught bigger specimens if we lobbed streamers and tungsten nymphs in the upper pools, but resisting a rising trout is too hard for most of us. Peter went down to the lake and cleared the inlet of pike!
Looking back I’m slightly ashamed of thinking about the fishing as slow. Last year in Mystic Pool must have spoilt us considerably. . .
Tuesday July 2nd
Still no proper hatches in Mystic Pool. Even so, last night’s fishing gave some lovely fish up to 3 kg. The river warmed up to 16 C and dropped a good 10 cm since we arrived. We fish both sides and only the lower pool seems to hold rising fish. With a few exceptions (like the one that came after Gunnars muddler like a freight train) they are on the small side.
Wednesday July 3rd
Time to move. I catch a 2 kg fish on a daddy-rubber-legs an hour or so before the helicopter is due. Just in front of the stone where I knew there would be a good fish. After so many attempts it was good to see that he was there. The river was dropping steadily and I wouldn’t be the least surprised if someone told me the big ones were rising in Mystic Pool right after we had left. . .
In total we caught 42 trout over 1 kg in Mystic Pool, Litza.The biggest weighed in at 3, 0 – 3, 0 – 3, 1 kg. Most of them were caught on assorted dry flies, such as Bruns Caddis, The Hulk, SC, Klinkhammers etc. The fish were not selective, something Svein proved when he caught several on an E. Vulgata emerger.
The helicopter arrived and took us to the new camp, aptly named Wulf’s Lear. The river close to camp looked promising, except for the lack of rising fish. The Kharlovka was warmer than the Litza, at a worrying 17 C.
After camp was set up we spread out. Peter and Gunnar went on a hike upstream towards Big Trout. Lasse and Paco fished close to camp, while Svein and I started working our way towards the two islands.
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It was slow fishing until we fought our way through thick bush to get to the end of the rapids near the isles. Fish were rising left and right, upstream and downstream. The birds were going mad. Meanwhile Lasse and Paco were experiencing absolutely nothing at all further downstream.
I caught four fish between 1, 5 and 2 kg in a small riffle. I could see the birds were feeding on something up by the lake. But we never got that far that night. A big trout was rising steadily in the current outside of the outermost island. The riverbank was covered in bush, so I decided against casting at it. It would be near impossible to net while being alone. Svein arrived after a while, and after a few casts he hooked up with it. It was a beautiful Kharlovka trout. Less than 60 cm, and 3, 0 kg on the scale. What winter dreams are made of in other words.
Our friends in Big Trout had experienced the mayfly hatch of a lifetime and the fishing to match. After some risky wading involving hand holding and improvised wading staves they managed to cast over towards the other side. Peter managed to hook a huge brown. 5, 2 kg and 71 cm. An unbelievable fish, even for these rivers. And he caught it on a size 12 dry. . . Several fish up to 3, 6 kg were also caught by the wading buddies.
Thursday July 4th
After reading the reports Lasse and Paco had moved upstream. Svein, Gunnar and I went up to the outlet of the lake upstream of the isles. As soon as we arrived we could see scores of cruising Kharlovka trout. 5-6 species of mayflies were hatching at the same time! The guys were into fish immediately. As the day progressed it just got better and better, and I feel certain I’m not the only one who will remember that day for as long as I live.
Mid-afternoon the caddis started hatching, and in exactly the same spots where we had caught fish between 2 and 2, 5 kg, we started catching bigger fish. Svein caught four fish around 3 kg in quick succession. Gunnar was having constant hook-ups on the other side of the river. I caught my biggest Kola-trout so far, a gorgeous fish at 4, 2 kg and 64 cm. The wind changed to a northerly at some point, but we barely noticed.
Stunned by what we had just experienced we turned back to camp. When we were relaxing with a cold beer, thinking it just can’t get any better, Lasse and Paco returned. The river had been good to them too. Lasses fish at 4, 4 kg was the obvious talking point. But so were the straightened hooks and the hot pursuits down the rapids.
Friday July 5th
During the night it had gotten a lot colder and the majority of bugs were small rhodani and other Baetis species. Not as many fish were rising on the neck, but in the riffles and small pools downstream several trout were rising. Several fish were landed and several more lost.
Peter had been fishing the lower stretches and things had started happening down there as well. He caught mostly smaller and not as fit fish down there, but there were exceptions up to 3kg. We guessed that the bigger fish would spread downstream from the lake as the hatches started moving downwards.
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Late at night I lobbed a Hulk into the current going by a small island downstream of the two isles. 3, 2 kg and 60 cm. We had carried the boat all the way up there, and finally it came to use.
Paco caught several smaller fish in the channels and finished his day with a magnificent 3, 5kg Kharlovka trout.
Saturday July 6th
We were due to be picked by the helicopter, and I had a boat upstream. It was freezing outside. I lost one and caught one (3, 6 kg) before I had to return with the boat. The fog was lying low and the long wait for the helicopter started. Then, around nine we get the message that we won’t be picked up tonight. The rest of the evening was spent resting, sampling the rest of the vodka and making pasta bolognese, tundra-style.
Sunday July 7th
To make a long story short; we’re picked up, get fed at Rynda and make the plane home. Another amazing week was over.
I will let the numbers speak for themselves. We caught 107 trout over 1kg in Wulff’s Lear. Average weight was 2, 3kg.
In total we landed 149 trout over 1kg from both camps. 85 of those were 2+. 18 fish over 3kg, and the three top were at 4, 2 – 4, 4 – 5, 2kg. I’m guessing that 95% of the fish were caught on dries, and that most of the ones from Kharlovka were seen rising.
Back before you know it!
Vegard
Week 26 - Big Trout Kharlovka - Swan Isles Litza, ending 29-Jun-08
In the car to Tommani the mood of the group where swinging. One minute, pure enthusiasm, caused by the sun, 20 degrees and the knowledge of what a normal "first week of the season" can offer dryfly addicts. Next, worried glares at each other, as we passed creeks with high water level, and the occasional pack of snow. From the helicopter, we saw signs of ice on the higher lakes. Our mood where back on top, as soon as we arrived at Rynda Camp. As always, the guys at Rynda gave us a warm welcome. They where supported by a couple of hundred caddis, swarming around the MI-8. It couldn`t be better.
Big Trout, Kharlovka
Temperature: 18-24 C, Water temperature 12-14 C.
It is always fun watching a group of trout nutters arriving on the tundra.The guys are fixing their tents, jumping into their waders, preparing rods & reels, all at the same time. Add the first tundra beer and you`ve got quite the display. However, there is always efficency involved! Who said that men can’t do more than one thing at a time?! After only 30 minutes we split into smaller groups and spread out up and down the river. Our goal: Explore the vicinity, and catch big trout. Unfortunately due to our late arrival (22. 00), we didn’t get as far as we’d hoped to. Over the following week we learned that the fishing peaked during the warmer hours of the day and became very quiet at night.
Monday morning rain curtailed our fishing efforts and the pace slowed down somewhat. The rain lightened up around 11 am but by then we where already fishing. The sun drove the clouds away, and the thermometer shot up to a balmy 19 Deg Celsius. Some of us spent time exploring, looking for rising fish and signs of caddis and mayflies. Others chose different tactics. Up here, the caddis where as numerous as they were over at Rynda camp. Raymond covered water with a dead drifted Streaking Caddis pattern, and soon landed a 3, 1kg fatty. A great start! In the rapids below camp, André discovered a small pool, soon to be known as Andrés Aquarium. In not more than two ours he caught five fish, the top three: 3, 8kg - 3, 3kg - 3, 2kg. Four out of five on Pål Krogvolds "Dynamitt" streamer. Fantastic, even in Kharlovka.Trying to hold 65cm of pure trout muscle away from the white water took its toll. The mid section of his 7wt snapped while playing a good fish over 3 kilo’s. The following day André returned to his aquarium, and landed two more. This time: 3, 8kg and 3, 5kg!
Raymond and Jan found their secret spot too! In a small pool sheltered from the cold NE wind, they found several fish feeding on the surface. Armed with the superpupae, size 14’s, they managed to land a good number of fish, including several over 2 kilo’s and 2 great fish over 3 kgs.
Tuesday and Wednesday saw condition improve with little wind and lots of warm sunshine. Fishing in 24 C is hard. Thank God (to Peter Power) for the supply of Coca Cola and Efes Beer. An important part of the tundra experience is ignoring the clock, dropping your shoulders, and casting when you feel like it! (Which is pretty much most of the time really!)) Fishing the currents in the big pools from the boat seemed like a good bet in the cold conditions, especially with the higher than normal water. Some seriously big fish were lost and unfortunately we returned with a fish just under 2 kilos for our efforts.
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Tommy and Asbjørn had both been struggling for a few days. The last evening in Big Trout, they stated that sleeping can be done anytime, deciding to explore, while the rest of us headed for that land where Mayflies and caddis hatch by the thousand and huge trout are caught on every cast! Yes, we went to sleep! Lady luck was on their side and they returned triumphant having landed six fish from 04. 00 to 06. 30. Tommy catching four fish over 2kg, the biggest where 3 kilo’s on the dot. Asbjørn, being relatively new to flyfishing, was awarded the Kharlovka Rookie trophy for a fat 2. 8 kilo beauty! Well done!
Swan Isles, Litza
Temperature: 14-22 C, Water temperature 13-14 C.
I had heard great things about this place, and the view from the helicopter took my breath away. This is surely one of the best looking places in the Trout Program. Litza is big down here. But small islands split the river into pools and currents, creating great habitat for trout and insects, and a wet dream for trout fishermen.
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Over the first evening, the water dripped 10cm. and it continued to drop for the remainder of our stay. The water temperature was also in our favour too! Obviously, things were about to happen. The first morning in Litza, I followed my usual tundra morning routine. A slow stroll down to the riverbank, a quick splash of water in the face, and a glance at the conditions. Wiping the cold water of my face, the first thing I saw was a Baetis Rhodani - a size 14 mayfly. Needless to say, even Tommy got out of his sleeping bag in a hurry!
The first hatch was sparse, but the following two days the intensity increased, and spinners started swarming. We were waiting for the first rise, but much to our surprise it never happened. Maybe the trout needed more time to realize that there were food on the surface? Or maybe the stoneflies were to blame? Huge (3 cm) stoneflies were all over the riverbank, and turning a rock in the river revealed four stoneflies for every mayfly nymph. We became despondent after the sight of dun after dun sailing down the tail of our homepool, facing only the threat of birds diving like Stuka bombers. Fortunately our streamers still did the trick!
I discovered that a black gurgler pattern could provoke the trout right up to the surface! The first fish who came for the gurgler was a deep 2, 3kg cock. It came for my fly like a great white shark chasing a seal, and ripped 20 meters of line of my reel in the first run. Others tried the same pattern with success, and Jan got the same effect by stripping big Stimulators across the surface. Casting a woolly bugger caught fish too! In the rapids downstream from Swan Isles I landed my biggest tundra trout so far. 3, 8kg and measuring 66cm. The whole experience certainly made me forget about Mayflies for a while!
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Out total catch this week was "only" 49 fish over 1kg. But 10 fish passed the 3kg mark, with 3 x 3, 8kg at the top. Top flies were streamers such as Krogvold’s Dynamitt, Kola Killer, Woolly Bugger and the Gurgler. The superpupae did the trick when the fish were rising for caddis pupae. Summer came late this year. In fact, this is the latest spring since 1996. Many experienced anglers have fished the Kola rivers in week 26. In a normal year everything happens this week! Mayflies and caddis 24-7, and head & tailing fish in every pool. I recon week 26 will be different next year, and I must admit that a "rematch" is definitely on the cards!
Looking at the week’s numbers, I know we could have caught more fish. If we had spent more time casting streamers instead of waiting for rising fish, we might have doubled the numbers. But numbers is not what makes a week and should certainly not become anyones priority! The good company of the group, the relaxing tundran atmosphere and watching a river run by is just as important. Six Norwegians are certainly looking forward to coming back!
Thank you for a great week.
Erlend